On a recent, bustling Saturday night at a trendy cocktail bar on Chicago’s near northwest side, my friend perused the menu full of bespoke drinks — most containing bitter aperitifs — and looked vexed.

Walk into a New York City bar or restaurant, and there’s one drink you are guaranteed to see on the menu: a martini. — Photo: Filepic Walk into a New York City bar or restaurant, and there’s one drink ...